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two days along the Saxon Shore Way
Taking advantage of the mild autumn of 2021 we first did this in late November, and it wildly exceeded our expectations.
True, it doesn't have the drama that a mountainous area does, but there was always variety (for example walking into,
and out of, Deal) and it was never dull. The start in quiet Kent countryside was delightful, and the final descent into Dover harbour was exhilarating. We liked this walk so much that in December 2021 we approached Dover from the
other side, in January 2022 walked from Dover to Sandling and in February did the top bit, from Birchington down to Ramsgate - see the descriptions below the photos.
We used the 1:50,000 OS Landranger map of East Kent and it is enough - signage is pretty good and navigation was easy. We also had the 1:25,000 OS Explorer 138 and App, plus Google Maps and Mapy.cz. Trains from London are easy to come by at either end.
Day 1: Sandwich to Deal (6 miles)
Wanting to avoid town, we picked up the A258 going south, and at a right turn took the clear marked footpath to the left. We then followed good paths and farm tracks to Blue Pigeons farm, over the railway line and on, through low-lying farmland with waterways (photo 1), many probably made for drainage. We turned right on the minor road, then left through the housing estate to the sea where we turned right, soon coming to a good raised path (photo 3) with the beach on our left (photo 2), a golf course on our right (photo 4) and Deal in the distance (about 3 hours). We stayed at the Queen Street Tap and ate at the nearby Wetherspoons (both cheap and cheerful).
Day 2: Deal to Dover (10 miles)
We walked along Deal seafront (photos 5 & 6) to the far end (photo 7) and climbed steps to Oldstairs Bay. Then it was a clifftop walk (photo 8), on to and past the prominant needle that is a War Memorial; then down by road to St Margaret's Bay with a warming stop at The Coastguard pub (photo 9). This 6 miles had only taken us 2½ hours. There's a view forward (photo 10) but no path, so we followed the signs back up the road and along the cliff (photo 11, looking back) and on to a windmill and lighthouse (photo 12). The tourist path (created after these photos) goes all the way to Dover, with the Harbour becoming ever more prominent (photos 13 & 14). We were on the white cliffs but couldn't see them unless we looked back (photo 15). The path became more dramatic, and so did our birds-eye-view of the harbour (photos 16 & 17). There is a cafe there too. The path took us down opposite Dover Castle (photo 18), under the A2, through town (photos 19 & 20) and on to the harbour front. The Saxon Shore Way turns right just before the roundabout for a better walk through town; we then left it to get to Dover Priory Station. This last 4 miles had taken us another 2 hours.
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For the Hythe to Dover version we took a train to Folkestone, walked under the bridge and caught the (frequent) number 16 bus to Hythe. The walk out of Hythe is low-key (photo 21), but soon livened up with some great artwork around Folkestone (photo 22) - four easy miles. Folkestone Harbour is lovely (photo 23). The walk next day, along the top of photo 24 is pleasant, and the entry to Dover (photo 25) is spectacular. We crossed the road too early, on that bridge, but it didn't matter. Later, the Saxon Shore Way takes you up left for a tour of various battlements, but you can probably cut straight into town (nine miles approx).
For the Dover to Sandling version we could only get out of Dover via the battlements in spite of using OS Explorer 138, but there were lovely views back (photo 26) and forward (photo 27). We picnicked overlooking the Samphire Hoe (photo 28), then it was a long hike to The Ship Inn at Sandgate, the other side of Folkestone, but worth it for the room, and dining room, right on the front (photo 29). Next day take the easy route along the Royal Military Road to West Hythe (our alternative by St Mary's Church was very rough!), up to Lympne for the Castle (photo 30) and lunch at The County Members, followed by a good path through woods (still the Saxon Shore Way) to Sandling Station.
The Birchington to Ramsgate version is not on the Saxon Shore Way, which goes inland, but was fantastic - hugging the coast and walking on the cliff top, the promenade or the beach. We took a train to Birchington and it was an easy 4 miles to Margate (photo 31). Next day we walked around a windy North Foreland (photo 32) but soon had a lovely coffee and cakes at the Captain Digby pub (opens at 11am), and on to Broadstairs (photo 33) and, with a little excitement (photo 34) to Ramsgate (photo 35). It's 9 miles but easy walking, we were there for a late lunch. The station is a mile or so inland. We have also done this the other way, staying in Broadstairs. At one point there is a sign on the promenade saying 'No Through Road', and it is telling the truth - it comes to a stop and you can't get down.
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